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Visited Jiufen in the late afternoon and stayed until after dark and I finally understand why people make the trip. The old tea houses lit up at dusk, the red lanterns reflecting in the rain, the narrow stone steps winding up the hillside - it is genuinely atmospheric in a way that photographs cannot capture. Had tea and taro balls at a teahouse overlooking the sea. The crowds thin out after the tour buses leave at 5pm. Stay for the evening. That is when Jiufen becomes magical.
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