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Got to Ephesus when the gates opened at 8am and had the whole place almost to myself for the first hour. Walking down the marble streets of a 2000-year-old city in the early morning light, with no tour groups, no noise, just the sound of birds - it was genuinely moving. The Library of Celsus is extraordinary at any time but in the morning light it is something else. By 10am the tour buses had arrived and the magic was somewhat diminished. Go early. Always go early.
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