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Spent five days in Kakadu National Park and it completely changed my understanding of Australia. The ancient Aboriginal rock art, some of it 20000 years old, is genuinely humbling. The wetlands at dawn with thousands of birds are extraordinary. The waterfalls after the wet season are powerful and beautiful. This is not the Australia of beaches and cities - it is something much older and more profound. I wish more people made the effort to get here. It is worth every kilometer of the drive.
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