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Rented a bike and spent a whole day cycling through the hutongs in Beijing and it was the best day I have had here. The narrow alleyways, the courtyard houses, the old men playing chess outside, the smell of cooking coming from open windows. Found a tiny dumpling place that had no English menu and just pointed at what the person next to me was having. Ended up at a rooftop bar watching the sun set over the grey rooftops. This is the Beijing that exists between the tourist sites.
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